The last bed

I can’t count the number of times I’ve gotten the last bed. Tonight I’m staying in Gonzar at Casa Garcia and in spite of being passed by an army of pilgrims, I was lucky enough to get the last bed. I only have about five nights left and I’ve been so lucky. This morning was another magical morning. Rural Galicia is so beautiful and its like stepping back into time. I wonder how many years they have lived like this, on the fringe of civilization. The houses all seem to have the mod cons, tv, washer, dryer, and there’s always a modern car in the yard. But the farm equipment all seems old, and the yard’s are filled with bits and pieces. Everyone has a garden, lots of greens I don’t recognize, and pumpkins!! The cows are driven from pasture to pasture down the lanes, a dog and an old man following. The countryside changed after Portomarin, still lots of forests but bigger fields and fewer farms.
I left Carolyn and Jan at the albergue this morning. They were going to go back to Sarria and get Jan’s knee seen to. I think they will just go on to Santiago after and maybe spend some time at Finnisterre. Jan wanted to put her feet I the ocean. It was a hard walk today but I feel better today than yesterday. It rained the last five k, which is usual for this time of year in Galicia. I’m just enjoying a Clara, will finish this post and go for a shower.
Showered but didn’t wash clothes. It’s still trying to rain. Went over to the other albergue and had a Clara. Then a snooze. Supper was amazing!! Steak as big as a cow. But I haven’t eaten since breakfast. It was so good. Very rare. Just the way I like it. Rice pudding for dessert. Now just a bit of digesting then bed. Our beds have extra blankets on. I think it will be cold but the hostel had a wood fire going and it smells like camping. Good night.